Ice Climbing is extremely dangerous! This blog cannot warn or prepare you for all the hazards that you could experience climbing ice or any other features in the mountains. This blog is only one of the many places where limitless information is available and it certainly is not a substitute for proper training, risk management, judgment, equipment knowledge or wilderness/back country skills. Seek proper training before going ice or rock climbing so that you can stack the odds in your favor. Be safe and have fun out there!
This is Craig Finn. He is the lead singer of one of my most favoritest bands, The Hold Steady. These guys are known for their high tempo, jaw dropping, Springsteen infused high school party anthems. I took Jess to see them at the Orange Peel in Asheville to a whooping crowd of about...100. The important part was that we saw Black Diamond athlete and all around rock climbing hard person, Dave Sharrat and his lovely wife Anna at the show proving that The Hold Steady speaks, or rocks, to climbers. Are you seeing the parallels yet? Ok, Ill keep working on it.
Jon Jones making Linville Gorge his bitch.
Enter ice season 2012-13. Off to a slow start yes, finishing with a bang? Well hold steady people we are about to find out. Seems like February has been the month. Coming off a warm tail end of Jan the cold fronts slamming the mid west are starting to punch WNC in the gut.
Jean Claude Van-Damm getting real.
Example? This weekend in Highlands we are looking at a low of 29 on Friday with a High of 42, Sat. low of 23 with a high of 34 and Sunday low of 19 and high of 36. Sunday would probably be OK and Monday would be even better. What does this mean for you? Roll the dice and try Starshine,Cinderella, or Coyote Ugly
Not the Coyote Ugly I had in mind but not a bad alternative if the ice is out.
As I type this my friends in the High Country are disowning me because Linville Gorge is the dark horse of NC ice. Long adventurous days to potentially there ice flows may turn away most but you are guaranteed to get something out of it. The water tables can be so out of whack there that one day the classics will be out and something obscure will be fat. Case in point, I walked in to a reliable ice flow with my rope gun Jon Jones, and spotted a flow I had never seen before. We were so confused that it was in that we decided to pass on it for a more reliable flow. It ended up being good but on the way out the first one was melting out so we couldn't do it. Strike while the iron is cold...or something like that. Linville might be shaping up too.
Friday high 39 low 24,
Sat high 32 low 21
Sunday high 33 low 18.
Lets be honest. Last years ice season was banner, banner for being a terrible disappointment for us Southern ice weirdos. Al Gore tried to warn us. In retrospect we did gain some useful knowledge from last seasons wet fest. Phil Hoffmann is here to break it down.
1. Temperature Inversions.
These little buggers are not to be trifled with. Here's an example: I got up at 4am to have a nice half day at the local 215 road cut with my buddy Thad. You know, living the life, coupla ice pitches before work with a BIG mountain view, inches from the car approach, bomber TR set ups to maximize time, hot coffee, all the good stuff. I left the house at 5am it was 17 degrees out. We rolled into Hwy 215 at 6am at 4500 feet and it was 42 degrees! There has never been a finer acronym than W.T.F.
These ice ruining weather patterns go like this.
www.weatherquestions.com
Basically, warm is trapped up high and cooler air gets trapped down low melting all the precious ice up high. This can be caused by different things, air pollution being one of them and since the Asheville area has some of the worst air pollution around we get to blame it on them.
2. Be Ready:
So in the summer its not usually a good idea to keep your rock shoes in the car unless you really love your local resoler. Same is true with ice boots in the winter. If you keep your ice boots in the car, ready to jump in and blast to the ice route as temperatures plunge, then your feet will feel like this when you slip into your boots.
This Yeti will crush your ice proj...if he had not kept his ice boots in his car all night.
In the spirt of the SE Alpine start here are a few pointers.
Pack your bag the night before over a beer or three. That means, crampons, tools, repair kit, screws, what have you. Chunk it by the door and have it ready to roll when your damn alarm is screaming at you. Tell her to go back to sleep and then bounce.
Do like your mamma told ya in grade school and lay your clothing system out the night before. This way you can jump in your skivvies and one piece, day glo, 1982 Gore-tex suit and then bounce.
Pack your lunch the night before over a beer or three and set the coffee machine to super dark auto brew. This way you can grab the high octane brew and then bounce. I feel a theme starting.
3. If you Don't Go then you Didn't Try:
It was so freakin' warm last Winter that these nut jobs were really getting creative. TYPICALLY we need 3-5 consecutive spans of single digit nights and sub-freezing days for optimum condishies. Since that never happened the most we could hope for was two consecutive spans. Even the old stand bys were not coming in What we learned was that if you...say it with me...don't go then you didn't try. Hang it out there y'all, you might be surprised. On my epic fail morning last year (see #1 temp. inversions) two dudes rolled past me on the way back from an attempt on Sams Knob. They were up there at 2am (absurd) trying to find solid ice. They got skunked like rest of us but damn if they did not get a killer work out, nail a big morning in the mountains and enjoy a beautiful Pisgah sunrise. Good on ya!
Try hard but not THAT HARD! Save some of the rest of us!
4. And that brings us to number four on the list.
IF ITS HOT OUTSIDE DON'T GO ICE CLIMBING!!!!!
Ahhh anecdotes. A guy I know calls me up last year in the middle of "ice"season. The converstaion transpired something like this...
RING!
Phil: Looking Glass Outfitters. This is Phil (insert pleasant inflection in voice)
Dude: Hey man! Its (identity protected because of dumbassary)
Phil: Hey! What's up?
Dude: Do you think Starshine will be in tomorrow?
Phil: I dont know. No, probably not but I will email you some recent photos.
Dude: SWEET! I just got it. Damn! It looks fat!
Phil: Ahhhhh, not really Dude
Dude: Ya think??
Phil: Yes
Dude: Ok man! (over psyched on this part) THANKS FOR ALL THE BETA! KILLER SERVICE AS ALLWAYS! (wink)
Phil: My pleasure, now buy something.
Dude: Later!
So dude goes out and gets on Starshine as his first ever ice lead. Don't even get me started on that.
The next day the phone rings. Conversation abbreviated to avoid anoying the reader even further.
RING!
Phil: So howed it go?
Dude: epic...just as we topped out it fell down. (Notice complete lack of psych in typing)
Phil: (Expletive) Are you guys OK?
Dude: Yeah, I think so.
Phil: Ok good. Buy something
Same thing happened to a legendary ice and rock climber from ATL but he was not as lucky. On a different route the whole thing collapsed with him on it. Complete melt out. Massive fall and a chopper ride to Mission Hospital in Ashevegas. He lived. Ask around.
The iconic Star Shine on the right with Mother Russia on the left. Despite popular belief these only freeze in winter.
5. The very last thing we learned from last season is that...THERE IS ALWAYS NEW HAMPSHIRE!
4 inches of snow on the Blue Ridge Parkway marked the beginning of winter early this week. If you are like me then your itching to get out on the cold, blue goodness this year. Be patient people and enjoy this stoke from last years season!
Welcome to the first post of the 2011/12 NC Ice season. We are still here to bring you the best, most up to date conditions of ice in WNC and the surrounding areas! Along with that we will be adding our favorite gear reviews, routes, and stories from the season. If you follow this blog please share with your friends that may have not heard of us.
From the gear shop perspective, we have already received our first shipment of ice gear and have been moving it right along. Something about cold weather in the South gets ice climbers all hopped and jittery like they have had too much Mountain Dew! We love it. Stop in and see us this season and tell us your goals for this winter!
Judging from the overwhelming blog stats y'all are checking in pretty regularly! Thanks so much for the support and I will try to keep the reports coming. Since Facebook is stoking my psych for ice it looks like people got the message and have been making it happen out there. 215 was packed last weekend and the proof is in the pictures I have been seeing. Plenty of fat ice up there and even good enough to bring Sean Cobourn out of ice retirement and swing the tools. Here is the scoop from the last 3 days.
Thursday Jan 13- 215, not great but forming.
Friday Jan 14th- Whitesides, Snicefest on lower angled stuff but moderate fatness on steeper stuff. The amount of snow really took a toll on the forming of new ice.
Sat. Jan 15: Linville area: A picture is worth a thousand words.
Katie Mattson swinging tools into WI 4+ near Linville Gorge
Bertrand "Swiss Stallion" Martenet cruising a possible FA mixed line. We are looking into it.
Bertrand pulling out of the business and on to 10cm ice near the top.
All photos are courtesy of Jon Jones. Check out more at www.jonmjones.com
Temps are starting to warm up here in Pisgah Forest but should still be good for climbing this weekend. We are looking forward to the AMI Ice Climbing Demo day at 215 on Sat. Registration is full at this time but we will see you out there. LGO has bookoos of ice screws coming in on Thursday if you are still looking for some. We have CAMP Radions and Black Diamond Express Screws up to 13cm. Last time I checked BD was totally sold out so this might be the last chance for a while.
Have fun out there and see you on the ice!
Phil
Sorry for the late posting but when the ice is good its really good and when its not so good well...
I would love to hear about peoples adventures over the last few days. Judging from the crowd at 215 people were out making it happen. I have heard reports of fat pillars and snicy slabs. Conditions were prime in Linville Gorge where the steep ice was relatively unaffected by the snow where as Whitesides low angle slabs were thick with snice and thin with ice. Ill have pictures to post pretty soon so stay tuned.
Phil
ClimberBrian at it again! I gotta meet this guy.(unless I have and don't know it) He is slaying all the ice this season! His report from Celo Knob.
"Wayne & I climbed the left side of wishbone on Celo Sunday. Conditions were
not great, most of the ice was thin and brittle with lots of snow (chest deep
in some places). I think the snow was preventing the ice from forming
properly. We did find several short sections of WI2 and many steep and
exposed snow slops that provided a fun and exciting day (long day!)."
Thanks "climberbrian"
As for the PNF area. Temps have been super cold but the 10" of snow may have not helped things form up. Hopefully Johns Rock will be in this weekend. Teens predicted for tonight and the rest of the week. It did not get above freezing today in town so it's mostly likely super cold up high.
Highlands/Cashiers
Lots and lots of snow up there leaving thin ice as the locals have mentioned. Continual cold temps should help fatten things up.
Went up to 215 today with Marcus and Jessica. We found leadable conditions on the trade routes and TRable conditions on some of the taller formations. Ice seemed to be getting fatter as the day went on. Rampaging Gumbies seemed to be pretty disconnected at the bottom where it was usually the fattest and the top was a very odd mix of snow and plated ice on top of snow. No questions that other areas will be in and stay in for the rest of the week, after the snow storm predicted for Monday.
Here is a shot of Jess on Gumbies and the rest of the cliff in the background.
Just got word from a friend who drove up to 215 today.
Turns out it was not really in today (Sat, Jan 8) but hopefully tonight's freeze will get the job done for tomorrow.
Phil
Judging from the really cold temps and cloud cover we are having, there is no question that at least 215 will be in on Sunday and Monday as well as the rest of the week. Last week just about everything fell down we started all over again. Temps are predicted as lows in the teens and single digits and highs in the low to mid thirties up until about Friday next week plus we are looking at a major winter event on Monday and Tuesday so NEXT weekend, take your pick, just about all the usual's will be climbable. As we get the reports they will go up here.
Thanks and have fun out there!
Phil
I got this off the Carolina Climbers Coalition website. www.carolinaclimbers.org.
Thanks to Stephen Scoff for hooking it up!
An adventure that can get you away from the gym on 215. A true wilderness route; bring headlamps and a bit of desire to do some of shwacking!
Sam’s Knob:Regular North Face (WI 3; 400-600’)
Travel north past the 215/BRP intersection for 3.7 miles and park at the pull out on the left. Continue north on 215, pass the obvious drainage on the right and then begin bushwhacking up the hill (leaving the road approximately 100 yards from your vehicle). Parallel above and left of the drainage while picking your way up the steep hill. Travel for approximately 15-20 minutes and then cross to the other side of the drainage/gulley (at the obvious clear/flat spot). Continue up the right side, eventually picking up the trail. The route proper begins (in the gulley) after an additional 20-30 minutes of travel (or less if the lower section is in).
The first pitch begins with a thin micro (3’) pillar or a fat ramp 10’ left. Romp up either for 50’ and scramble up to the best pitch. Fire this fat/steeper section and then cruise the long stretch of grade II until the rope says no more. One more short but steep pitch leads to the route’s abrupt end.
Rap the route or pick up the trail (climbers right/sometimes steep) that leads to the bottom of the first pitch.
Took a drive up to 215 yesterday. Everything had either fallen down or was melting very quickly. A quick scout of Sam's Knob revealed the same conditions. Ill post some pictures tonight.
Sorry for the quick post.
Phil
"215 was good today...lead rampaging gumbies it was fat and plastic best ice
I have been on this season. Several harder lines were also leadable."
Thanks for the update "climberbrian".
It is rainy and warm this New Years day so I am considering the drive to 215 to take a look around and check in on Sams Knob.
Went in to on Wed. to find plastic ice on Lower Hawksbill. I had never been there for ice before and we found two routes that were fat enough to lead and in great shape. Temperatures were in the upper 30s and there was deep snow on the approach. A boot pack had been in place letting us know that we were not the first this season but it did make hiking in easier.
A few notes.
Roads were clear up to the gravel forest service road into table rock. We did put chains on the Forester to make sure we had safe passage to the Hawksbill parking. The snow was deep in some places.
Thanks to Jon Jones for the rope gunnage.
We had four screws (nOOBs) up to 19cm and placed them all. A very light rock rack was useful.
Greeting from Coastal Georgia.
Spending some time with the Fam. this week and sitting out warmer mountain temps. My buddy Jon enjoyed a 60 degree day at Rumbling getting some good rock time in but it looks like cold weather is on the way in for the weekend. I received a Whitesides report from N. GA and Cashiers Valley Local, Robin, this morning via e-mail. I wish it was positive but it might just keep you from driving all the way out there only to be disappointed.
Whitesides report as of 10/22/10
"Went to Whitesides today and walked the loop. everything is either down detached , or coming down. looks like we start from the beginning when it gets cold."
Perhaps Boone will be in better shape. If any one knows let me know and Ill post it up.
Wish it was better but that's where we stand.
Happy and safe Holidays to all!
Phil
