Judging from the overwhelming blog stats y'all are checking in pretty regularly! Thanks so much for the support and I will try to keep the reports coming. Since Facebook is stoking my psych for ice it looks like people got the message and have been making it happen out there. 215 was packed last weekend and the proof is in the pictures I have been seeing. Plenty of fat ice up there and even good enough to bring Sean Cobourn out of ice retirement and swing the tools. Here is the scoop from the last 3 days.
Thursday Jan 13- 215, not great but forming.
Friday Jan 14th- Whitesides, Snicefest on lower angled stuff but moderate fatness on steeper stuff. The amount of snow really took a toll on the forming of new ice.
Sat. Jan 15: Linville area: A picture is worth a thousand words.
Katie Mattson swinging tools into WI 4+ near Linville Gorge
Bertrand "Swiss Stallion" Martenet cruising a possible FA mixed line. We are looking into it.
Bertrand pulling out of the business and on to 10cm ice near the top.
All photos are courtesy of Jon Jones. Check out more at www.jonmjones.com
Temps are starting to warm up here in Pisgah Forest but should still be good for climbing this weekend. We are looking forward to the AMI Ice Climbing Demo day at 215 on Sat. Registration is full at this time but we will see you out there. LGO has bookoos of ice screws coming in on Thursday if you are still looking for some. We have CAMP Radions and Black Diamond Express Screws up to 13cm. Last time I checked BD was totally sold out so this might be the last chance for a while.
Have fun out there and see you on the ice!
Phil
A Precautionary Message
Ice Climbing is extremely dangerous! This blog cannot warn or prepare you for all the hazards that you could experience climbing ice or any other features in the mountains. This blog is only one of the many places where limitless information is available and it certainly is not a substitute for proper training, risk management, judgment, equipment knowledge or wilderness/back country skills. Seek proper training before going ice or rock climbing so that you can stack the odds in your favor. Be safe and have fun out there!
Tuesday, January 18, 2011
Monday, January 17, 2011
Big Ice last Week
Sorry for the late posting but when the ice is good its really good and when its not so good well...
I would love to hear about peoples adventures over the last few days. Judging from the crowd at 215 people were out making it happen. I have heard reports of fat pillars and snicy slabs. Conditions were prime in Linville Gorge where the steep ice was relatively unaffected by the snow where as Whitesides low angle slabs were thick with snice and thin with ice. Ill have pictures to post pretty soon so stay tuned.
Phil
I would love to hear about peoples adventures over the last few days. Judging from the crowd at 215 people were out making it happen. I have heard reports of fat pillars and snicy slabs. Conditions were prime in Linville Gorge where the steep ice was relatively unaffected by the snow where as Whitesides low angle slabs were thick with snice and thin with ice. Ill have pictures to post pretty soon so stay tuned.
Phil
Tuesday, January 11, 2011
Celo Knob Update/PNF/ Highlands/Cashiers
ClimberBrian at it again! I gotta meet this guy.(unless I have and don't know it) He is slaying all the ice this season! His report from Celo Knob.
"Wayne & I climbed the left side of wishbone on Celo Sunday. Conditions were
not great, most of the ice was thin and brittle with lots of snow (chest deep
in some places). I think the snow was preventing the ice from forming
properly. We did find several short sections of WI2 and many steep and
exposed snow slops that provided a fun and exciting day (long day!)."
Thanks "climberbrian"
As for the PNF area. Temps have been super cold but the 10" of snow may have not helped things form up. Hopefully Johns Rock will be in this weekend. Teens predicted for tonight and the rest of the week. It did not get above freezing today in town so it's mostly likely super cold up high.
Highlands/Cashiers
Lots and lots of snow up there leaving thin ice as the locals have mentioned. Continual cold temps should help fatten things up.
Have fun out there and stay safe!
Phil
"Wayne & I climbed the left side of wishbone on Celo Sunday. Conditions were
not great, most of the ice was thin and brittle with lots of snow (chest deep
in some places). I think the snow was preventing the ice from forming
properly. We did find several short sections of WI2 and many steep and
exposed snow slops that provided a fun and exciting day (long day!)."
Thanks "climberbrian"
As for the PNF area. Temps have been super cold but the 10" of snow may have not helped things form up. Hopefully Johns Rock will be in this weekend. Teens predicted for tonight and the rest of the week. It did not get above freezing today in town so it's mostly likely super cold up high.
Highlands/Cashiers
Lots and lots of snow up there leaving thin ice as the locals have mentioned. Continual cold temps should help fatten things up.
Have fun out there and stay safe!
Phil
Sunday, January 9, 2011
215 Report
Went up to 215 today with Marcus and Jessica. We found leadable conditions on the trade routes and TRable conditions on some of the taller formations. Ice seemed to be getting fatter as the day went on. Rampaging Gumbies seemed to be pretty disconnected at the bottom where it was usually the fattest and the top was a very odd mix of snow and plated ice on top of snow. No questions that other areas will be in and stay in for the rest of the week, after the snow storm predicted for Monday.
Here is a shot of Jess on Gumbies and the rest of the cliff in the background.
Here is a shot of Jess on Gumbies and the rest of the cliff in the background.
Saturday, January 8, 2011
215 Updated Report
Just got word from a friend who drove up to 215 today.
Turns out it was not really in today (Sat, Jan 8) but hopefully tonight's freeze will get the job done for tomorrow.
Phil
Turns out it was not really in today (Sat, Jan 8) but hopefully tonight's freeze will get the job done for tomorrow.
Phil
Ice this Suday and Next Week
Judging from the really cold temps and cloud cover we are having, there is no question that at least 215 will be in on Sunday and Monday as well as the rest of the week. Last week just about everything fell down we started all over again. Temps are predicted as lows in the teens and single digits and highs in the low to mid thirties up until about Friday next week plus we are looking at a major winter event on Monday and Tuesday so NEXT weekend, take your pick, just about all the usual's will be climbable. As we get the reports they will go up here.
Thanks and have fun out there!
Phil
Thanks and have fun out there!
Phil
Thursday, January 6, 2011
Great Sam's Knob Beta
I got this off the Carolina Climbers Coalition website. www.carolinaclimbers.org.
Thanks to Stephen Scoff for hooking it up!
An adventure that can get you away from the gym on 215. A true wilderness route; bring headlamps and a bit of desire to do some of shwacking!
Sam’s Knob:Regular North Face (WI 3; 400-600’)
Travel north past the 215/BRP intersection for 3.7 miles and park at the pull out on the left. Continue north on 215, pass the obvious drainage on the right and then begin bushwhacking up the hill (leaving the road approximately 100 yards from your vehicle). Parallel above and left of the drainage while picking your way up the steep hill. Travel for approximately 15-20 minutes and then cross to the other side of the drainage/gulley (at the obvious clear/flat spot). Continue up the right side, eventually picking up the trail. The route proper begins (in the gulley) after an additional 20-30 minutes of travel (or less if the lower section is in).
The first pitch begins with a thin micro (3’) pillar or a fat ramp 10’ left. Romp up either for 50’ and scramble up to the best pitch. Fire this fat/steeper section and then cruise the long stretch of grade II until the rope says no more. One more short but steep pitch leads to the route’s abrupt end.
Rap the route or pick up the trail (climbers right/sometimes steep) that leads to the bottom of the first pitch.
Thanks to Stephen Scoff for hooking it up!
An adventure that can get you away from the gym on 215. A true wilderness route; bring headlamps and a bit of desire to do some of shwacking!
Sam’s Knob:Regular North Face (WI 3; 400-600’)
Travel north past the 215/BRP intersection for 3.7 miles and park at the pull out on the left. Continue north on 215, pass the obvious drainage on the right and then begin bushwhacking up the hill (leaving the road approximately 100 yards from your vehicle). Parallel above and left of the drainage while picking your way up the steep hill. Travel for approximately 15-20 minutes and then cross to the other side of the drainage/gulley (at the obvious clear/flat spot). Continue up the right side, eventually picking up the trail. The route proper begins (in the gulley) after an additional 20-30 minutes of travel (or less if the lower section is in).
The first pitch begins with a thin micro (3’) pillar or a fat ramp 10’ left. Romp up either for 50’ and scramble up to the best pitch. Fire this fat/steeper section and then cruise the long stretch of grade II until the rope says no more. One more short but steep pitch leads to the route’s abrupt end.
Rap the route or pick up the trail (climbers right/sometimes steep) that leads to the bottom of the first pitch.
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
Monday, January 3, 2011
Current 215 Conditions
Took a drive up to 215 yesterday. Everything had either fallen down or was melting very quickly. A quick scout of Sam's Knob revealed the same conditions. Ill post some pictures tonight.
Sorry for the quick post.
Phil
Sorry for the quick post.
Phil
Saturday, January 1, 2011
215 Stays Fat, Thrives During Inversion
Happy New Year!
A good news report from climberbrian.
As of 12/31
"215 was good today...lead rampaging gumbies it was fat and plastic best ice
I have been on this season. Several harder lines were also leadable."
Thanks for the update "climberbrian".
It is rainy and warm this New Years day so I am considering the drive to 215 to take a look around and check in on Sams Knob.
New Years Resolution. Climb more ice!
Phil
A good news report from climberbrian.
As of 12/31
"215 was good today...lead rampaging gumbies it was fat and plastic best ice
I have been on this season. Several harder lines were also leadable."
Thanks for the update "climberbrian".
It is rainy and warm this New Years day so I am considering the drive to 215 to take a look around and check in on Sams Knob.
New Years Resolution. Climb more ice!
Phil
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